January 28, 2011
Over the past few weeks I have had the absolute pleasure of dining at three of London’s most delicious and delectable Indian-Asian restaurants. My previous reviews of Sitaaray and Chor Bizarre paint a pretty picture for the city’s Asian cuisine scene, but Tamarai can really lay claim to the culinary crown.
A bar-cum-restaurant-cum-club Tamarai is somewhere that – at first – you might think is a jack of all trades but a master of none… You’d be wrong to think so! Tamarai strikes a perfect balance between the three and as far as the food goes, it’s faultless.
The Location
Tamarai sits below Sitaaray in the Covent Garden theatre district of London. You’d be forgiven for assuming that the two are similar or share certain aspects of the building but once you’ve scaled the steps down to the lower levels Tamarai emerges as a dark and sexy basement bar that looks and feels nothing like Sitaaray: it’s its own restaurant and establishment – totally independent and completely different.
The Interior
Tamarai is certainly cool in the New York City sense of the word. The whole establishment is an open-ended restaurant that has a long lit bar running down one side and dark black theme painted throughout. The tables are decorated with a mixture of classic chandelier and modern velvet upholstery – purples, blacks, whites and dark greens seem to catch the eye and you really get a sense that you’re a VIP in an exclusive members-only arena. The lighting is wonderful: it’s low and soft enough that you can relax and recline in a sense of privacy but there’s plenty of illumination to let you see the menu. Lighting is really something that restaurants can get horribly wrong – Tamarai though gets a perfect ten.
The Drinks
Usually when I’m reviewing a restaurant, the drinks take a back seat because it’s not something you expect to be unique or particularly well though out. It’s fair – most restaurants will boast a range of authentic beers, a selection of cuisine-complementing wines or cocktails and that’s usually about it. Tamarai on the other hand turns it up a notch and provides a specially selected wine menu from Grover Vineyards in India. It’s a wine list that’s won the Independent’s coveted Best Wine List Award and – personally – moved the palette around the world’s vineyards in a delicate and unoffensive way.
The Food
Tamarai’s taster menu was on the cards when we arrived because the best way to rate what a restaurant has to offer is to get a little bit of everything. We started with a delectable mix of deep-fried crab claws and legs, corn-fed chicken spring rolls and – one of my personal favourites – the deep-fried tofu; it was a silky-smooth finish on the palette with an extra helping of hot chilli sauce. On top of that we were treated to extra dishes from the set menu (including a perfectly slow-cooked pork belly with crackling) and some main course platters such as Thai Green curry, sticky Jasmine Rice and the biggest black tiger prawns you’ve ever seen!
The restaurant’s senior chef – Manish Mehrota – should be commended for his dedication; he has travelled the world in search of the finest spices and the most authentic cooking styles. What comes together is an excellent blend of those pan-Asian areas each famous for their own delicacies and delights. It’s a beautiful blend of tastes, textures and you’ll probably try something you’ve never eaten before – a truly enjoyable culinary experience.
Service
Really quite excellent. I was very well looked after and also well-considered which adds a nice touch to Tamarai – every drink or dish was carefully recommended and Raman, the assistant manager, remained friendly and professional yet unobtrusive throughout the night. Every member of staff also knew what they were serving (down to the last ingredient) and the wines were served with an informed explanation that made you confident the food and drink was being selected with care and love.
The Low Down
Tamarai is an elegant 110-seat restaurant renowned for its pan-Asian cuisine which follows the Latin Routes from Chettinad in South India to Burma, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Singapore and China. It’s the ideal spot to entertain in a luxuriously class environment
Tamarai are going to be loving-it-up for Valentine’s Day by offering couples the chance to dine on a specially selected chef’s menu that brings the romantic views and tastes of East Asia to your very table.
Dishes include mouth-watering starters such as baby calamari, smoked salmon Thayar Satahm or spring rolls and the main menu consists of a mix of Thai green curry, curry leaf chicken and black tiger prawns.
Finish up with a romantic chef’s dessert platter and all for £49 per person – leaving before 8.00pm – or £59 per person from 8.30pm onwards. Both offers exclude drinks and are available between the 12th and 14th February 2011.
See the website for further details and full menus…